The Gray Flannel Suit

The gray flannel suit is one of the classic suit models. It was the most popular style during the 50's and 60's, but men did not wear it with personal style. It was often paired with a solid black tie, and black cap toe oxfords. The black tie look is not incorrect, but it is boring to look at. The Duke of Windsor also favored gray flannel, and of course, he wore it with style and grace. He preferred a chalk stripe model, and he often paired the suit with his trademark brown suede shoes. Personally, I am a big fan of gray flannel, and I love its look and texture. It has an old money appeal, and it is a beautiful foundation for classic ties and accessories. Actually, I am supposed to pick up my new double breasted gray flannel suit at Brooks Brothers this Friday. I am very excited, and I plan to wear it this weekend to a casual cocktail party. I leave you with another picture of a gray flannel suit from Ben Silver. It is a solid gray flannel, and it looks great. However, I would shorten the sleeves on the jacket, and I would not wear that red tie. I just don't like it.

Reader's Inquiry

Richard,

"I enjoyed your post on the Sunday afternoon drive, and I have a question for you. Would a WASP ever consider driving a Ferrari?"

In my opinion, a true WASP would never consider driving a brand new Ferrari. A geniune WASP would find it too flashy and vulgar. Even someone who does not consider themself a WASP, but favors classic style, would probably not drive a new Ferrari. However, older models that are considered classics could be found in the WASP garage. I could see an extremely wealthy WASP owning a 1961 Ferrari 250 GT, or perhaps a 1964 Aston Martin DB 5. That is certainly possible in my humble opinion.

1961 Ferrari 250 GT

1964 Aston Martin DB 5

Reader's Request: Do You Have A Myspace Page?

Richard,

"Do you have a Myspace page, and if not would you consider building one? I believe you would have an interesting page, and you may encourage America's youth to dress in classic fashion."

I don't have a Myspace page, but I don't see any harm in creating one. So, to fulfill your request, I have created a Myspace page. However, the blog will be my focus, and it is doubtful that I spend a lot of time doing whatever you do on Myspace. Anyway, I created a page, and I guess it would be a great opportunity to network. My address is the following:

www.myspace.com/oldenglishmanor

The Return Of The Bow Tie

The bow tie has seen a resurrection of sorts in men's fashion of late. However, for classically dressed men such as myself, it never went out of style. Of course the appeal to classic fashion is the fact that it is timeless. Regardless, I have noticed more men lately wearing a bow tie than I can ever remember. Designers like Ralph Lauren and J Crew have started to dress their models in the classic neckwear of late, and for classic brands like J Press and Brooks Brothers, the bow never left. The picture above is a Brooks Brothers ad, and I love the entire ensemble. The bow tie in the picture adds a little something extra to the tweed jacket and classic shirt. I probably wear a bow tie twice a month, and though I would not abandon all my other ties to wear one daily, I do enjoy the occasional adornment.

Do The Royals Have Classic Style?

There is no doubt that the English influenced what we know as WASP Style, and more specifically the royal family. Most of us can agree that the Duke is a legend in the world of classic style, but what about today's royal family? The photo above is from Majesty Magazine, and displays members of the royal family in formal evening attire at the Queen Elizabeth's 60th wedding anniversary party. So again, are today's royals classically dressed? Do they have style? In my opinion, it depends on which member of the family we are talking about. In this picture, the queen is dressed appropiately, and she looks like a queen. Next, let's focus on Charles and Phillip who are beside the queen in the photo. Charles is wearing a classic double breasted tux, with opera pumps, and he added a little color with the purple pocket square. Also, he is wearing a self tie bow and the appropriate hoisery. In my opinion, Charles is classically dressed, and he is in other photos as well. I have seen Charles wearing white linen when he is on official duty in warmer climates, and that is certainly classic. How many politicians or world leaders do we see breaking away from the boring blue suit and primary color tie? In addition, when comparing Charles to his sons, he definitely exihibits classic style. In a larger photo taken from the same event, one son is wearing an ill fitting tux, and the other is wearing casual black penny loafers. That is just appalling.

Finally, lets examine Phillip's attire. Phillip is wearing a classic single breasted tux with a notch lapel, self tie bow, appropriate hoisery, and gucci bit loafers. Overall, I believe he exhibits classic style. I do prefer a peak lapel for my tux jackets, but he is properly dressed. Some may argue that the Gucci loafers break the rules, and I have read varying opinions on this matter. Personally, I have never tried the look, but he seems to pull it off. The shoes are worn, but not worn out, and they have an old money appeal. He makes it work in my opinion. I will leave you with some additional photos of Charles, and I look forward to hearing your thoughts and comments.

The Fair Isle Sweater

The fair isle sweater is a must have for the WASP wardrobe, and once again we can thank the Duke of Windsor for introducing it to America. Apparently, he was spotted wearing the sweater while playing golf, and the pattern became all the rage on Ivy League campuses. I remember reading somewhere that the Duke referred to his fair isle sweater as one of his favorite garments. I share his delight, and I hold my fair isle sweaters in high esteem as well. I have two wool fair isle vests, one cashmere vest, and one spring/summer vest made of linen and cotton. Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers have made this famous pattern a staple in their collections for years. Even though the fabric has a complicated geometric pattern, it is simple to wear. The sweater can be worn casually as pictured, or it can be combined with a tweed jacket or navy blazer and complimenting tie. Ralph Lauren pictured a fair isle sweater with a charcoal flannel double breasted pin-stripe suit, and it looked very nice. So, the next time you go sweater shopping, be sure to include a fair isle sweater. And remember, the more color the better!

The Sunday Afternoon Drive

1956 Jaguar Roadster

It is a given that most WASPs have their Volvo, Range Rover, or Mercedes station wagon. However, at some point in their life, a WASP may be tempted to spring for the "Sunday Afternoon Car". This is the car that they drive on special occasions. Maybe they drive it to their favorite ice cream shop for a cone of rum raisin. The car pictured above is without question an example of the "Sunday Afternoon Car", and it is my favorite classic car. I fully intend to own one someday soon. Now, when going out for the Sunday drive, a WASP must wear the proper attire. An example of the proper outfit would be a tweed jacket, driving gloves, turtleneck or oxford cloth button down, tattersall driving hat, and chinos or gray flannels. A pair of loafers or driving shoes will complete the look. Also, look at the jacket on display, and you will notice that the gloves are doubling as a pocket square. I would usually frown upon such a display, but it seems appropriate for the Sunday drive. Buckle up, and enjoy!

The Saddle Shoe

Saddle shoes are seldom spotted in today's world, but I believe it is a plus to insert them into your shoe rotation. Now I admit, I would not wear them everyday, or every week for that matter. However, they are undoubtedly classics, and they fit within the Ivy League/WASP style. Their height of popularity was probably in the 50s, and they were common among professors and students at Ivy League schools. They are a casual shoe, and they come in different color combinations. The saddle shoes pictured above are navy and bone, and they would look great with a blue blazer, chinos, oxford button-down shirt, and repp tie. Saddle shoes with brown and bone/ivory or brown and brown suede look good with a tweed jacket and chinos. Also, consider the photo from the camel hair jacket post. Imagine the outfit displayed with gray flannel trousers and brown and ivory saddle shoes. Saddle shoes can also be worn with a casual suit (tweed, seersucker, chino).

Jeremy Hackett

I am getting ready for an elegant dinner tonight that I am hosting; therefore, I am going to move forward with what was supposed to be tomorrow's post. Jeremy Hackett is in my opinion a very stylish man, and we should all take note. The Satorialist (a blog that I read) posted a very nice picture of Mr. Hackett wearing a navy chalk stripe suit and polka dot bow tie yesterday. In the picture above, he brings together many of the items that I have discussed in previous posts. He is wearing a well tailored double breasted blazer, chinos, and very elegant brown suede shoes. In addition, Mr. Hackett appears to be wearing a colorful madras or tartan tie, and we will certainly be discussing madras as we approach spring. Also, like many of us, he has been known to enjoy a quality cigar.

WASP Accessory: Macanudo Gold Label Cigars

The cigar has become known as a power accessory in many circles, and they have been known to grace the hand of a WASP or two throughout history. In my opinion, a quality cigar can look classically stylish in the hand of a man that is well groomed and wearing a well cut suit. Jeremy Hackett is an individual who comes to mind that fits this persona. However, picking a quality cigar that you will enjoy can be a daunting task for most. I would not suggest that a first time smoker buy a robust cigar for their first smoke. My suggestion for first time smokers is my favorite mild flavored cigar, the Macanudo Gold Label. Macanudo has long had the reputation for producing mild and consistent cigars, and the Gold Label offers another take on this mild flavored classic.

The Gold Label has a subtle sweet flavor throughout the smoke, and a very mild finish. Macanudo also makes a good Maduro and Robust for those who like a strong and flavorful cigar. The next time you and the guys are at the club, light up a Gold Label. I think you will enjoy it.

The Brown Suede Shoe

After discussing the Duke of Windsor in yesterday's post, I began to think about my obsession with brown suede shoes. Brown suede shoes are very English, and definitely WASP attire. My collection includes a pair of brown suede cap toe oxfords, penny loafers, tassel loafers, bit loafers, and Bluchers. After a while, it becomes difficult to return to the normalcy of polished leather. I always get attention when I wear my brown suede shoes with my navy, charcoal, and gray suits. However, the attention is often a look of disapproval, but I remind myself of the disapproval expressed toward the Duke. I also remind myself that most of the adult world knows little about class and style, and it is doubtful that 1 out of 10 people can tie a necktie properly. However, I would never suggest that someone buying their first pair of dress shoes buy a pair of brown suede shoes. Learning to appreciate the sartorial bliss of brown suede takes time, but I encourage every aspiring WASP or style conscious man to try it once.

The Duke's Influence

The Duke of Windsor is in my opinion the most stylish man in fashion history. He arguably influenced men's fashion more than any other person. He can also be credited for introducing many items that can be found in the WASP wardrobe today. Some of these items include: brown suede shoes with town suits, fair isle sweaters, midnight blue formal wear, and the list goes on. The picture above comes from the Naval Historical Center, and the Duke is impeccably dressed. He was very fond of double breasted suits, and he had his jackets made in England while his trousers were made in the USA. He preferred a full cut trouser with a generous cuff, and I believe I remember reading somewhere that this drove his father crazy. He often wore brown suede shoes with his town suits, and many thought this to be appalling. I personally love the look, and I wear my brown suede shoes with gray, charcoal, and navy suits. The picture above illustrates the Duke with brown suede shoes and a muted prince of wales double breasted suit. Also notice the sleeve length, and generous amount of cuff on display. Absolutely perfect, and all men should take note.

The Corduroy Sport Coat

The Corduroy Sport Coat is another classic WASP essential. With the temperature dipping into the teens today, it was a good day for corduroy. My favorite color for corduroy is olive brown, but other colors look great as well. I have four corduroy sport coats, and one corduroy suit. Today, I wore my corduroy suit in olive brown with a tattersall shirt, burnt orange ancient madder paisley tie, royal purple wool pocket square with burnt orange and hunter green accents. I finished the look with brown Ralph Lauren wing-tips.

For many, corduroy is reserved for college professors, and men over the age of seventy. For a WASP, it can be a debonair look that can look very appealing. I always receive numerous compliments on my corduroy sport coats and suit. However, my suggestion is do not make a corduroy suit your first corduroy purchase. In addition, make sure you have suiting essentials (navy, charcoal, gray) before investing in a corduroy suit. Introduce the fabric to your wardrobe by purchasing a couple pair of trousers, and a nice sport coat.

The Camel Hair Sport Coat

With the frigid temperatures we have been experiencing in the east, I have really enjoyed wearing my heavy tweeds, corduroy, and camel hair sport coats. The picture above is a Brooks Brothers example of how to wear your camel hair with WASP style. I loved this photo instantly, and I bought all of the items featured. Camel hair sport coats are available in alternative colors, but I suggest sticking to the basic color of camel. The blazer featured above actually has a subtle herringbone pattern. It is absolutely beautiful! I also own a basic camel hair blazer made by Ralph Lauren with no pattern and leather buttons. Camel hair sport coats in camel/brown plaid also look very sophisticated.

My suggestion, every WASP needs a camel hair sport coat for their rotation. Pair it with gray or white/cream flannel trousers. Olive corduroy trousers are another option that could be considered. However, I prefer gray or cream trousers. When considering a tie, the options are limitless.

The Velvet Slipper

The velvet slipper is a classic shoe that certainly has its place in a WASP's wardrobe. The shoe originated with English aristocracy, but it never really caught on with Americans. We occasionally see a stylish individual pairing their monogrammed or crested slippers with a tuxedo at an evening event. However, to witness this is very rare, and it is becoming rare to see an individual wearing patent leather shoes with their tuxedo as well. Though it is not incorrect, we often see a pool of black cap toe oxford lace-ups. Again, not incorrect but not preferred either. It is also very sophisticated to pair a velvet smoking jacket in midnight blue, burgundy, or bottle green with a matching slipper.

Now, here comes a really tough question that I mentioned in an earlier post. Can one wear velvet slippers with sport coats, blazers, and casual clothing? In a world that barely accepts the shoes in formal settings, it may be an appalling thought. However, this blog does not focus on just any world. We are focusing on the world of the WASP. WASP don't care about what the rest of the world thinks, and I believe most follow in the footsteps of men like the Duke of Windsor. When the Duke wore brown suede shoes with his town suits, many were appalled but he made it work. The gentleman pictured in an earlier post was wearing red crested slippers with his blazer, and I thought it looked great.

In my opinion, the velvet slipper has its place in the WASP wardrobe for both day and night. Actually, I have worn my slippers during the day with my blazer. I wore my crested bottle green Belgian Loafers with my custom blazer, pink Brooks Brothers Ainsley collar shirt (without a tie), bottle green ancient madder pocket square, and cream trousers. I also recently ordered a pair in black like the slippers featured on this post. My inspiration came from a picture of Ralph Lauren wearing one of his classic ensembles. Navy double breasted blazer, cream trousers, blue spread collar shirt, silver glen-plaid tie, and black monogrammed slippers. It is up for debate, but I say "yes".

An Old Favorite

I was going through some of my old fashion magazines, and I stumbled upon an old favorite of mine. This issue of Robb Report is from September 2001, and it envokes imagery of classic WASP Style. The cover story focuses on classic English tweeds, chalk stripes, and plaids. All of the models are displaying the featured clothing while visiting their local club. Most of the clothing featured is from Oxxford Clothing, Kiton, and Ermenegildo Zegna. The cover is one of my favorite combinations. Featured is a brown windowpane cashmere sport coat, fine-wale corduroy trousers, micro-check cotton dress shirt, rustic orange stripe tie, wool v-neck vest, and a wool herringbone topcoat. The look is finished off with a silk pocket square, and an interesting pair of split-toe monk strap shoes. I always wanted to create this look for myself, and I bought items this past fall to do just that (with exception of the monk straps). I have never been a fan of monk straps, but I would make an exception if I could find a pair like the shoes featured.

The Bit Loafer

The bit loafer is a classic shoe that has graced the feet of WASP, bankers, and many other professionals for quite some time. The most well known brand that sells these shoes is probably Gucci; however, many other brands have their interpretation. The shoe above is an Alden model in cognac, just like the pair I own. I wear mine with my custom made blue blazer, or with one of my many Brooks Brothers sport coats and selected trouser of the day. Can one wear bit loafers with a suit? Well, for many it is a debated issue. I don't suggest wearing bit loafers everyday with suits, but I think it is okay now and then. For example, I wore my bit loafers last summer with my cream colored linen suit, light blue Brooks Brothers tab collar dress shirt, and a navy club tie with a cream stripe and hints of pink and yellow on the motif. I finished the look with a silk pink pocket square.

If I could only have three pairs of shoes (I have about 25), I would select a pair of bit loafers for my rotation. My suggestion, buy a pair, you will love them. Just be certain that you match them with well tailored clothes. Don't fall prey to the the disease that many well to do business men fall into. Many think they look good because they paid a $1,000 for a suit while simultaneously ignoring the fit. Something about the cost blinds their perception. It does not matter how stylish one's shoes or accessories are because if your clothes do not fit properly, the entire outfit is ruined. You would have been just as well to have went to the mall and bought a polyester blend suit and rubber sole shoes.

Wearing the Blue Blazer: Part 3 - Advanced Options

I was browsing on Dann-Online, a clothing service for men, and I came across this picture (worth checking out, they have some neat stuff on their site). I saved the image to my computer because I thought it would be perfect for the next chapter on the blue blazer.

These guys are what I referred to as Jedi Warrior WASP (Advanced). They have paired their blazers with white/cream trousers as referenced in earlier post, and the two on the right have advanced to the double breasted model. Notice that they have a pocket square, and they are wearing button down polo/dress shirts. They have left their ties at home, and they appear to be at a casual gathering. Their look would also look sophisticated with repp or club ties as well.

Also, notice their feet, each has advanced past the basics. Though penny loafers are correct, notice that the one on the left has red velvet/suede crested slippers with a leather sole. The one in the middle appears to have a tasseled loafer, and I can't quite make out the other. A spot on the Satorialist Blog argued for and against (mostly against) wearing velvet slippers outside the home with blazers, etc. Personally, I think it is great and very stylish in the right setting. Look at the model's feet on Ralph Lauren's website, and I bet you will find them wearing velvet slippers with their day clothing. I personally have a pair of bottle green Belgian Loafers with a crest, and I am ordering a pair in black with my initials. I think we should continue to discuss the appointment of one's feet while wearing a blazer, but we will save that discussion another day.

Wearing the Blue Blazer: Part 2- White and Cream Trousers

A friend sent me the following photo; I believe he found it on a Google image search. Anyway, it is a good picture to use as we discuss our next chapter on blazers. Our focus today, white/cream trousers. Yes, I know the people in the photo are not wearing blazers, but let's use our imagination. Imagine an ensemble similar to the last post and place it above the white pants. This will create a classic WASP look, and it works well for garden parties, yachting, and casual events.

I believe white is a little more debonair than your basic chinos. Most men stray from white trousers, but I believe they should be considered. Can you wear white/cream in the fall/winter? In my opinion, yes, you can. I would choose a flannel during the fall and winter months, and a light weight wool, cotton, or linen in the spring and summer. White trousers also look great loafers and no socks.

Wearing the Blue Blazer: Part 1- The Basics

In my earlier post, we discussed how the blue blazer is essential to every WASP's wardrobe. Owning one is just the beginning, and now comes the hard part for beginners. What should you wear with your blazer? The picture above provides a basic example of how to wear your navy blazer.

Start with an oxford cloth or pinpoint dress shirt with a button down or point collar. Choose a white or blue one to begin with, and as you feel more comfortable opt for other colors or a candy stripe shirt. Be sure that you buy a shirt with the proper sleeve length, and collar size. You should be able to put two fingers in between your collar and your neck. If you can fit three or four fingers in between the cloth and your neck, your shirt is too big. Your shirt sleeve should end where your wrist and thumb begin. If you have a lot of baggy material throughout the sleeve, your shirt is too big. I also prefer a slim fitting shirt as opposed to a baggy shirt. Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren sell slim fit/custom fit shirts that look great. When you place your blazer on, a quarter- inch of sleeve should be visible. Othewise, your blazer sleeves are too long and you should have them altered.

Next, you need to choose a tie. The picture above depicts a striped tie, and stripes or regimental striped ties look great with a blue blazer. They are a good starting point. We will discuss other options later. My favorite is a navy tie with bright yellow stripes. The picture above does not show a pocket square in the jacket, but I believe all well dressed WASP should have a little linen on display. Choose a white linen or cotton pocket square to get started.

Finally, one must choose trousers and footwear. The picture above would look great with a variety of trousers, but lets stick to the basics for this post. Choose a pair of chinos in khaki to get started. Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, and J Crew are all good places to start looking for the perfect pair. I prefer flat front chinos with a 1 3/4 inch cuff. Pleats with cuffs have the reputation of being dressier, but I believe flat fronts with a cuff offer the best of both worlds. For dressier occasions, you can wear gray flannels or gray worsted wool dress trousers. The combo above would look great with either chinos or gray dress trousers. Finish the look by appointing your feet with a nice pair of penny loafers. Invest in a good pair that will last a long time. I prefer cordovan leather as sold by Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Alden Shoes, etc. Pair your loafers with navy or dark gray socks that complement your blazer or trousers. This is by no means the only acceptable socks, but it is the basics. Or, go sock less....very WASP!

The Blue Blazer

Okay, let's start with the basics. Where does WASP style begin? The blue blazer of course. WASP and preppies (basically the same thing) have been styling their blue blazers long before our great great grandparents were born. It is the essential piece to any wardrobe, and no WASP can survive without one.

How should it look, other than being navy blue? It should come equipped with brass/gold buttons. Otherwise, you look as if you stole your suit jacket and doubled it as a sport coat. The Preppy Handbook suggest that the jacket be unstructured with little shape. Since I am slender, I prefer a jacket that is a little more shapely in the waist. Why work so hard to stay slim if you are going to make yourself look overweight with your wardrobe. I do agree with the handbook and most other fashion experts that the shoulders should be natural (no obtrusive padding). Crest are optional, and in some cases it is nice to have two blue blazers. One with a crest, and one without. If you do choose to have a crested jacket, make sure the crest displays your club or Alma mater. Also, opt for a two or three button single breasted blazer to get started. One can also choose a double breasted model, but beginners should not start here. This is for the Jedi Warriors of WASP. Ha!

Finally, what should you wear with your blue blazer? Well, let's make that a series to begin our posts. I promise, I will start having pictures very soon.

Greetings

Hello, and welcome to my new blog entitled WASP 101. What is this blog about? Well, I intend to focus on the lifestyle known as WASP, and we will attempt to help those interested in participating in the lifestyle to do so. This blog will also give fellow WASP the opportunity to talk and share thoughts. Most of the viewers may know that the phrase WASP is actually an acronym, but I believe the phrase has long since transcended its beginnings. Anyone can be a WASP, and anyone can live the lifestyle. For those who have never heard the term, an individual classified as a WASP could also be called a preppie.

What aspects of WASP life will we focus on? Fashion for the most part; however, we will venture into home decor and other subjects related to WASPs.

Alright, well let's begin class! Welcome to WASP 101.