Thursday, November 19, 2009

Expanding The Kit





As far as dress goes, one can stop with the basic kit and you will forever look like you fit in the WASP establishment. But, if you are like me and you are a clothes horse, there are some things one will need to expand your wardrobe. Some (this is not a complete list) of these items will include:

Sport Coats: A Blackwatch Plaid is a nice alternative to the Navy Blazer for the fall/winter months. In addition, you might want to purchase a bold plaid jacket. Certainly, I would not recommend these purchases before buying all the pieces of the basic kit.

Suits: Not much to add her other than a tweed suit. Tweed is a WASP staple, and a nice tweed suit is certainly WASP.

Trousers: Corduroy trousers in khaki, olive, red, etc. are a WASPy pant, and I recommend a pair of blackwatch trousers for more informal occasions. As much as I desire a tartan suit, don't pair the blackwatch trousers with the blackwatch sport coat.

Shoes: Some were frustrated with my dislike of black shoes, and that is ok. Black shoes are certainly WASP, but I prefer a more relaxed tone. I hate black with navy, and I think brown adds life to charcoal. Thus, other than formal occasions I do not need black shoes. But for other shoe additions, consider a bit loafer, saddle shoes, and Belgian Loafers. The saddle shoes can we worn with sport coats and informal suits like tweed. The bit loafers can be worn with suits and sport coats. In addition, Belgians can be worn with either as well. These last two suggestions may upset some, but remember, a WASP is about relaxing and wearing casual pieces with formal ones.













Photos From: J Press, Alden, Belgian Loafers

21 comments:

Christina V. said...

I love your blog, as does my preppy lawyer husband, who wants everything you feature. My own fashion/style blog is not quite as focused as your, but I do love the inspiration!

Richard said...

Thanks Christina, I enjoyed reading your blog and I added it to my roll. Again, thanks!

Minimalist Trad said...

The Basic Kit doesn't really need to be expanded at all. In fact, one can easily manage with a couple of navy blazers (rotated, of course) and charcoal flannel slacks. A variety of shirts and neckties will still lead people to comment on how well-dressed one is.

Actually, one could even manage with no variation is shirts, at all. It's the neckties that really lead to people considering a man to be well-dressed....as long as one is wearing a navy blazer. The navy blazer is the key.

Richard said...

I said that one can get by with the basic kit, but if you want to expand......these are some suggestions.

Stick to Basics said...

Richard,

Choosing The Basic Kit is not a matter of "getting by".

Many of us who have expanded the Basic Kit find ourselves returning to it over and over again, with the additions, after a while, simple occupying space in the wardrobe and eventually ending up in thrift shops.

"Basic" isn't the starting point (as in a basic set of tools), but the heart and spirit of Ivy/Trad.

Anonymous said...

I would say there are seasonal/festive items that deserve to be worn sparingly. I have red corduroy pants, and they only get worn immediately before Thanksgiving and Christmas.
I'm shocked that a tweed two-piece was added before your beloved madras sport coat.

Anonymous said...

you shouldnt wear bit loafers with a suit...

Cranky Yankee said...

With the exception of your issues with black shoes, you did a pretty good job with the Basic Kit. In expanding it, though, you once again try too hard. I grew up in and live in southern New England and in my experience, old money WASPs are not peacocks.

Brian said...

I think some of the people out there are taking the expanding kit out of content. Growing up and still to this day I've attended parties with the guest wearing items similar to what you picked. It gives us an oppurtunity to wear something besides what we wore to the office that day.

The third jacket is awsome by the way. Keep up with this series it's been great.

Richard said...

Brian, thanks for your kind words and I enjoy your blog as well. I think a great deal of my readers look to disect everything I say, and take most of it out of content. You are correct!

Anonymous said...

You have a very sophisticated sense of color. Personally, I'm not so brave - though I'm working on it. I could never get away with wearing tartan trousers. I do have some good tartan shirts - cotton flannel and Viyella. WASP if not necessarily Ivy League, but comfortable in winter. Being self-employed in a 'creative' field, I rarely have to wear a tie, though I do wear blazers and tweed jackets. I've been accused of being part of The Establishment.

Anonymous said...

Apropos black shoes: I agree with you 101%. I never wear gray or blue pants except as part of a suit. Jeans are the only exception. All my chinos and 'odd' trousers are either khaki or brown tones. 'Earth' tones rather than 'cool' shades. It's a matter of taste, and good brown or cordovan shoes in the right shade and leather have a rich look that black ones can rarely match. I own exactly one pair of simple black shoes - fine cap-toe oxfords to wear with suits or a dinner jacket or even, rarely, with white-tie. Brown and blue shades in combination have long been considered a very 'rich' look. Nothing wrong with that!

Anonymous said...

in the previous post you said WASP is a lifestyle which one can presumably choose to attempt to embody, as you have, but in this post you call it an "establishment," of which one is either included or excluded. which is it?

Anonymous said...

Isn't the phrase "out of context"? I'm more than willing to excuse a typo (like "disect") but you have perpetuated the error. What would WFB think?

Anonymous said...

I don't think these jackets should be included in the basic kit. They are way too loud to be considered "Basics" in my opinion. More like "go to hell". One would be considered an eccentric if they wore them in even the classiest of places

Anonymous said...

Brian is correct. Tartan trousers are worn to be worn to parties, not for public speaking. Context is everything.

Richard said...

Guys, these items are beyond the basic kit. Yes, I agree that one should not wear tartan trousers on official business, but what is wrong with wearing them or a tartan sport coat on Friday? Nothing.

KLS said...

I think if a man wants to wear plaid trousers, then he needs to *wear* them. Too often, I see men trying so hard to look the part that the clothes wear them.

That looks desperate and unattractive.

poloist12 said...

Again with my mothers shoes.
You know which ones I'm speaking of.

paul said...

Richard - excellent taste in all of it!!! I'd like the whole "kit" and caboodle! Cheers, =Paul

Summer is a Verb said...

I go weak in the knees for a blackwatch blazer...XXOO