Photo Credit: Brooks Brothers
There is no question that Brooks is not the sartorial beast it once was, and they have allowed popular culture to seep through their doors. However, the extra slim fit shirt may be a step too far. I am a fan of the slim fit variety, but the extra slim fit shirts are not comfortable or becoming on a man in my humble opinion. I truly believe Brooks would do itself a world of good if they fully returned to their 3/2 roll days of Ivy League glory, but we know that will never happen.
25 comments:
Their shirts have declined in quality as well....after a few trips to the laundry...the buttons disintigrate like a wet aspirin...
There is nothing more infuriating than getting suited up for work....selecting a shirt...going to button up...and poof...button failure.
Totally absurd. Maybe they are targeting the Gigolo and Male Dancer market.
I'm sure there are twiggy men that these will find the fit flattering.
I'm stupefied by the description and accompanying diagram. So this is just another inch off the waist of the slim fit(which is three inches narrower in the chest that their potato sack fit)? Why don't they show a photo of a model wearing each shirt?
And whatever happened to that Pundit huy and his blog?
Even their slim fit shirts were a betrayal of their heritage. The extra slim fit shirts are an abomination.
As a 6'1" professional male who recently lost 60 lbs. (235 -> 175), I have discovered that most off-the-rack dress shirts fit entirely too "blousy" throughout the middle section, even Brooks/Joseph Bank's cleverly titled "tailored" and "slim" fits; they're neither tailored nor slim. But when the only measurements provided are for neck and arm-length, they have to make the shirt fit the largest number of men with said neck and arm measurements, so those fitter gentleman are left with a baggy shirt designed to fit their portly counterparts. I applaud their attempts to design closer-fitting shirts. While no professional should wear a shirt so tight its buttons are stressed and his nipples are protruding, he also shouldn't have a huge bulk of fabric hanging over his belt, or fold-tucked on his back to simulate a closer fit.
After my drastic weight loss, I found myself with a closet full of shirts that looked incredibly sloppy, and that most off-the-rack slim fit shirts were still too blousy, Thomas Pink excluded (lovely slim fit dress shirts). So I found a wonderful tailor who alters them for me ($22/shirt) to the perfect fit for my frame and desired amount of movement.
The new fit will sell shirts. I was a Brooks slim fit guy until I got my hands on the Lands End Tailored Fit and they just, well, fit better. No unnecessary material, none of that bulk and flattering on just about everyone. This, will probably be good for brooks to have a fit that actually fits thin men.
The shirts have a custom-like fit for a thin person such as myself. The full cut version is a ridiculous tent on anyone who's not overweight. I've found the classic oxford - the one that requires ironing - to wear like iron. It's been years since I've found a button cracked by the cleaner, at least on these shirts.
Richard, I have to disagree with you here. While I understand the idea of a traditional BB shirt and cut, I disagree that creating a line of cuts that fit the modern man is an abomination of the brand. Especially when considering that the only difference is the tailoring. It's not like they've introduced eurotrash collars or hidden buttons. They've only gone so far as to remove a step from the customer's process, namely visiting a tailor.
I commend BB for making a solid, everyday for everyman, non-iron dress shirt at such a reasonable price in these slimmer cuts. They're the only shop selling decent everyday work shirts at reasonable prices.
Now, that said, I think it IS stupid to make an extra slim fit. Why isn't the slim fit that size? I'm a normal sized guy, 5'10" and 180. Despite feeling normal, BMI says I'm slightly overweight, so the ideal guy my height is even skinnier. So why create a slim fit that's still too baggy?
Finally, right on about the T.Pink slim fits JTS. Amazing shirts, really quality stuff.
This makes me think of a visit to Brooks Bros. in Boston in the mid-seventies. A friend wanted to buy some Oxford boxers for her fiancé.
She told the salesman the size. He took a pair out of the case, unfolded it and held them up. My friend was concerned that there was so much material and that they were such a full cut that things might appear 'bulky' under a pair of trousers.
"Well," said the salesman, "one doesn't simply put on a pair of Brooks Brothers boxers. One arranges oneself."
I'm happy to stick with the full cut in a boxer, button-down Oxford and 3-button sack.
LBT has hit the nail on the head, once again.
People who describe the Traditional Fit as "baggy", "potato sack", "bulky", "blousy", etc. really don't understand what Trad clothing is all about.
I respectfully disagree with Monsieur. It is suggested here that the extra-slim fit is less traditional and perhaps a new fad. This is not so. Victorian men were quite concerned with their waist-lines and their clothing reflected that. I for one have a slim, athletic figure and unfortunately have to have most of my clothing tailored because there is nothing worse than ill-fitting clothes. The fit is everything in menswear and this cut accomodates those with narrow waists and broad shoulders. I don't think this fit is intended for men of ordinary size; that would be unbecoming indeed. I think we can all agree that it would be a far greater abomination for slender gents to wear parachute clothes than for Brooks Brothers to introduce a trimmer fit. Cheers.
P.
www.swellanddandy.co.cc
After purchasing a "new old stock" BB shirt recently and laying it next to a year and half old BB pinpoint I realized how poor the quality has become. Although they were both the same neck/sleeve sizes, the older shirt was actually had a larger neck (correct) and larger cuffs. I wish they would return to the Brooks of the past. The words slim fit and extra slim should never be included in any sentence with Brooks.
After purchasing a "new old stock" BB shirt recently and laying it next to a year and half old BB pinpoint I realized how poor the quality has become. Although they were both the same neck/sleeve sizes, the older shirt was actually had a larger neck (correct) and larger cuffs. I wish they would return to the Brooks of the past. The words slim fit and extra slim should never be included in any sentence with Brooks.
Geez, that ugly shirring above the cuff (and omission of the gauntlet button) is the real abomination, albeit the sizing of their overfull cut shirts is an atrocity equal to any painted-on shirt.
Some men do not require an extra twenty inches of cloth circling their torso. Modern man has separate sleepwear, nightshirt looseness is obsolete.
What's this world coming to. First LL Bean with signature line and now this. I've heard it all.
I agree, extra slim fitting shirts may suit the hipsters riding skateboards on the lower east side, but they don't belong among the elite classics at Brooks Brothers.
"Slim" and "Extra-Slim" have no place in the Trad vocabulary (or the Trad wardrobe).
A generous full cut shirt is one of the affordable luxuries that life provides.
Note: For those gentlemen who find the Brooks Traditional cut too skimpy, try Mercer and Sons:
www.mercerandsons.com
Having worn Brooks Bros. shirts for years I am glad they are offering shirts that are traditional in style but slimmer cut. The slim cut shirt works better for my build. Now if they would just improve the quality of the fabric. The non iron fabric wears out quickly around the neck and cuff.
Hopefully they get the neck size right. The last couple BB shirts I looked at were half an inch or three quarters of an inch larger than what they were labeled. What's the point of having sizes if you do not stick with it?
Whilst I admit that an extra-slim fit may be a step too far, I simply cannot understand such aversion to Brooks or any other traditional clothier offering a more tailored (slimmer, if you like) fit. What is so appealing about huge, crumpled heaps of fabric spilling all over the place? I have a very slim frame and would not think twice about buying a shirt that reflected that. As an Englishman, when I see a supposedly well-dressed American wandering about in a gaudy great circus tent of a shirt, I simply think "your shirt doesn't fit". I'd argue that in actual fact, to a man who isn't overweight, a slimmer shirt is actually a far more flattering, and more correct, fit.
http://aegrisomniauk.blogspot.com/
What do you all expect from a clothing firm owned by Italians? This kind of thing was going to happen sooner or later. By the way, here in Italy they sell trim-fit oxford cloth BB shirts for 98 euros. That's about $120.
The extra slim fit shirts are one of BB greatest combination of classic style and modern convenience.
Old Trad said it all when he described slim fit shirts as an abomination.
Those who want Engish- and Italian-cut shirts really don't understand what Trad/Ivy/WASP is all about.
To make a long story short:
Brooks' original/regular fit is called "Traditional Fit", therefore "slim" and "extra slim" are not traditional.
The whole WASP/Trad/Ivy thing is based on being traditional. Period.
At 5'9" and 135lbs, extra-slim cuts are my only option. I ordered a BB traditional fit club collar shirt when it was on sale online not too long ago, and I felt like I was wearing a trash bag, though the sizing was technically just right.
Relax, and let the skinny guys join the fun.
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